Why horses lose shoes by James Mundell DipWCF
- Normal wear and tear: Shoes won't stay on forever. Even if you cannot see any wear in the shoe itself the hoof wall begins to wear around the nails, this normally starts at the heels as they contract and expand during normal movement. Also as the hoof walls grow the surface area becomes increasingly larger than the original shoe surface which starts to put strain on the nails making the nail holes larger and subsequently looser.
- Wear of the shoe: This can vary for each horse but ultimately one of two things happen. The toe of the shoe wears past its breaking point becoming weak and vulnerable to coming off as all the strength of a shoe is in the toe. The other is the nail heads wear away and then there really is nothing left holding the shoe on.
- Buckling: Any shoe that is subject to stress through hard landings on uneven ground or from kicking hard objects will possibly buckle and come off.
- Spreading: This can happen with any ground contact although it is more common in thinner sections and softer metals like aluminium plates. This does not mean your farrier should be using a heavier shoe because if the horn is weak and the shoe is too heavy it will rip straight through. Spreading of the shoe loosens the nails and creates protruding edges that if stepped on means the shoe normally comes straight off.
- Shearing: Shearing happens during excess stress on the shoe both backwards and sideways. Although the clips do prevent some of this pulling back (or sideways if the shoe is quarter or double clipped) clips are not fail safe!
- Mud: Mud is a stand alone reason for shoe loss but if combined with any of the other possible causes we often see more shoes coming off in winter than in the summer months. It does not take much mud to suck off an already loose shoe but thick enough mud creates enough suction to pull off even a new, tightly nailed shoe.
- Treading: I box off all my shoes - this is where we rasp (either by hand or with a belt sander) away the steel edges, mainly done to the heels creating a rounded edge which is harder to catch with a stray foot. But this does not always prevent treading although it does help. If your horse or any other horse steps on an exposed bit of the shoes it is often ripped straight off especially if the foot that is stepped on is being picked up or is already in motion.
- Pads: If your horse has to have pads under the shoes you should be aware that the shoe is often more at risk of coming off. The weight bearing compresses the pads which creates some movement in the shoe that would not have been present at the time of shoeing. The shoe begins to rock and this loosens the clenches.
- Shoes not bearing on solid horn: Even if the hoof wall looks solid and healthy a few layers in it may not be the same story. Any thinness, brittleness, softness of the wall or any cracks or cracking can cause the horn to disintegrate/collapse or crack under weight causing the shoe to become loose or fall off.
- Surface fit: any unevenness in the surface fit will cause the shoe to rock which loosens the clenches. You will not normally see the rocking but it is there.
- Loose nails: these are not nails that have come loose but nails that were not driven in or bedded tightly enough. If your horses feet already have loose nails in then pulling the shoe will be easy.
- Badly fitting nails: Using nails that are too small or too large. Nail holes that are not well formed or run through soft hoof means the nails will only be holding the shoe on at their tips where the clenches are formed. So when the nail heads begin to wear there is not much holding the shoe on anymore but if the nails had been solidly and correctly driven they would be holding the shoe on from the point of entrance into the hoof all the way up the shank to the clenches.
- Poor nail placement: There should be a sufficient number of nails driven deeply into solid horn. This is difficult when the horse has cracked, weak, soft or brittle feet with poor horn quality. However four well placed nails are better than seven or eight badly placed ones. When the hooves are in this sort of condition it makes both nail pitch and placement crucial and much harder to attain. Using nails that are too large will make this situation worse and for horses such as thoroughbreds which typically have poor quality feet a slim nail is best. A slim nail is a nail in the same size category as a normal nail but has a thinner shank.
James is also one of Voices for Horses panel of experts so you can send in questions for him. Alternatively if you would like to contact James about your horse we will pass your email on to him. Please send your email to admin@voicesforhorses.co.uk with the subject heading James Mundell.
Added on: 13/06/09.
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